VoltBudget

Battery bank calculator

How big a battery bank do you need?

List what you run each day. The calculator adds up your watt-hours and sizes a lithium or lead-acid bank for your van, boat, RV or cabin.

Example loads from a typical camper van. Edit, remove, or add your own.

DeviceWattsQtyHours/dayDC or ACWh/day
How long the bank should last with no sun or alternator.
Bank size—Ah
Daily use—Wh
Total storage—kWh
12V 100Ah batteries—

AC loads include 10% inverter loss. Size solar to recharge this bank →

Gear that fits this result

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How the battery calculation works

Every battery bank starts with one number: how many watt-hours (Wh) you use in a day. For each device, multiply its wattage by the hours it runs. A 50W fridge compressor that runs about 8 hours across a day uses 400Wh. Add every device together and you have your daily energy budget.

Devices that plug into an inverter cost a little extra, because inverters lose around 10% of the power they convert. The calculator divides AC loads by 0.9 to account for that.

Bank (Ah) = Daily Wh × Days ÷ Usable fraction ÷ System voltage

The usable fraction is the part of the battery you can drain without damage. Lithium iron phosphate (LiFePO4) handles deep discharges well, so we plan around 80% to leave a buffer. Lead-acid batteries, including AGM, last far longer when you keep discharges to about 50%.

Worked example

Say you use 1,000Wh a day on a 12V system with lithium batteries and want one day of autonomy. 1,000 ÷ 0.8 ÷ 12 = about 104Ah. You'd round up to two 100Ah batteries, which also gives you a margin for cloudy days.

Typical daily loads

DeviceTypical wattsTypical Wh/day
12V compressor fridge40–60300–500
LED light (each)3–1010–40
Phone charging10–2020–40
Laptop45–90150–300
Roof vent fan15–40100–200
Diesel heater (running)10–4080–250
Induction cooktop1,200–1,800600–900
Starlink (standard)50–75500–1,500

The label on a device shows its maximum draw. Most things use less on average, so a cheap plug-in watt meter or a battery monitor gives you more accurate numbers.

Lithium vs. lead-acid

LiFePO4 costs more up front but gives you nearly twice the usable energy per amp-hour, weighs about a third as much, and typically lasts thousands of cycles. AGM is cheaper and handles freezing temperatures better while charging. For most vans and boats that are used often, lithium works out cheaper over its life. For a weekend trailer that sits most of the year, AGM can still make sense.

If your loads are small and you'd rather skip the wiring entirely, a portable power station bundles battery, inverter and solar charger in one box.

Frequently asked questions

How many batteries do I need for a camper van?

Most camper vans with a fridge, lights, fans and device charging use 600–1,200Wh a day. That works out to roughly 100–200Ah of 12V lithium. Use the calculator above with your own devices for a specific number.

How long will a 100Ah battery last?

A 12V 100Ah battery stores 1,200Wh. With lithium you can use about 960Wh of that, so a 50W load would run around 19 hours. A 100Ah lead-acid battery gives you closer to 600Wh of usable energy.

Should I use 12V, 24V or 48V?

12V suits most vans and small boats because so much gear runs on 12V directly. Systems with inverters over about 2,000W, or long cable runs, benefit from 24V or 48V because the current is lower and the wires can be thinner.

How do I wire batteries to get more capacity?

Batteries in parallel add amp-hours at the same voltage. Batteries in series add voltage at the same amp-hours. Two 12V 100Ah batteries in parallel make a 12V 200Ah bank; in series they make 24V 100Ah.