How the solar calculation works
A solar panel's rating is what it produces in lab conditions with full, direct sun. Real installations get less because panels heat up, sit at the wrong angle, collect dust, and lose some power in wiring and the charge controller. Planning on about 75% of the rated output gives you a realistic number.
Peak sun hours are not daylight hours. They're the number of hours of full-strength sun your location gets, averaged over a day. A summer day in Arizona might deliver 6 or more; a December day in Seattle might deliver 1 or 2.
Worked example
You use 1,200Wh a day and travel in places with about 5 peak sun hours. 1,200 ÷ (5 × 0.75) = 320W. Two 200W panels give you 400W, a little headroom for cloudy days.
Sizing the charge controller
The charge controller sits between the panels and the battery. Its amp rating is about the current it delivers to the battery, so it depends on battery voltage, not panel voltage.
The 1.25 factor covers bright, cold days when panels briefly beat their rating. Also check that the controller's maximum input voltage is above your panels' combined open-circuit voltage, especially if you wire panels in series.
Series or parallel panels?
Wiring panels in series raises the voltage, which means less current, thinner wire, and better MPPT performance early and late in the day. Parallel wiring keeps working better when one panel is shaded, which matters on a van roof with vents and racks. Many installs use a mix.