How inverter sizing works
An inverter has two ratings. The continuous rating is what it can deliver all day. The surge rating, usually about twice the continuous rating for a few seconds, covers the jolt that motors and compressors need to start.
The extra 25% keeps the inverter out of its hottest, least efficient range and leaves room for something you forgot. Running an inverter at its limit for long periods shortens its life.
Typical appliance watts
| Appliance | Running watts | Startup watts |
|---|---|---|
| Laptop charger | 45–100 | same |
| TV (LED, 32–50") | 50–120 | same |
| Blender | 300–600 | 600–1,200 |
| Microwave (700W cooking) | 1,000–1,200 | 1,200–1,500 |
| Electric kettle | 1,000–1,500 | same |
| Hair dryer | 1,000–1,800 | same |
| Induction cooktop | 1,200–1,800 | same |
| RV air conditioner (13,500 BTU) | 1,300–1,800 | 2,500–3,500 |
Heating appliances like kettles and hair dryers draw their full wattage the whole time but don't surge. Anything with a motor or compressor surges. A soft-start kit on an air conditioner can cut its startup surge by more than half.
Pure sine wave vs. modified sine wave
Pure sine wave inverters produce power like a wall outlet. Modified sine wave inverters are cheaper, but they can make motors run hot, cause audio buzz, and damage some chargers and medical devices. For a van, boat or RV, pure sine wave is the safe default.
Don't forget the battery side
A 2,000W inverter at full load pulls around 185A from a 12V battery. That needs short, heavy cables, a properly rated fuse, and a battery bank that can supply that current. Lithium batteries list a maximum continuous discharge, often 100A per 100Ah battery, so you may need more than one battery just to feed the inverter.